Shiretoko Five Lakes: Walking the Boardwalk Above Bear Country
Shiretoko is brown-bear country, and the Five Lakes sit in the middle of it. That is why there are two ways to visit: a raised wooden boardwalk that anyone can walk at any time it is open, and ground-level trails with rules that change by season. If you have one hour and no booking, the boardwalk is the one you want.
The elevated boardwalk
The boardwalk runs for about 800 metres from the car park to a viewing deck beside the first lake. It stands on stilts above the sasa bamboo grass and is lined with electric wire, which keeps bears off the walkway. It is free, it needs no guide and no lecture, and it has no steps, so it is suitable for wheelchairs and pushchairs.
The view is the reason to go. Behind you is the Shiretoko mountain range; in front, open grassland falling away to the Sea of Okhotsk. Allow about forty minutes for the return walk, longer if the light is good.
The ground trails
The trails that loop around the lakes at ground level are a different experience: forest, still water, and reflections of the mountains. They are also where the bears are. Depending on the season, you must either attend a short lecture before setting out or join a tour led by a registered guide, and the trails close when a bear is sighted nearby.
The dates and fees for each season are set every year. Check the official Shiretoko Five Lakes information before you go rather than relying on an old blog post, including this one.
When to go
The road to the Five Lakes is closed in winter. In the open season, mornings are calmer and the car park fills later in the day. We were there a little before 10 am in late August, in clear weather, and the sea was visible all the way to the horizon.
Getting there
The Five Lakes are a short drive beyond Utoro, the town on the western side of the peninsula. Buses run from Utoro in the main season. Shiretoko is a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site, and the road in is part of the visit: you pass Oshinkoshin Falls on the way.
See it in motion: eastern Hokkaido in 28 seconds. Next, read about Oshinkoshin Falls or our guide to eastern Hokkaido.