Our day in Jozankei
Photographed 15 October
Sapporo's hot spring town sits in a mountain valley. In mid-October, the gorges and dams above it turn red and gold.
Jozankei is the hot spring town in the mountains south-west of Sapporo, on the Toyohira River. Most visitors come for a bath. In autumn, the valleys around it are worth the trip on their own.
We went on 15 October: Hoheikyo Dam first, furthest up the valley, then Jozankei Dam and Sapporo Lake, and the town itself at dusk. Every photo on this page is our own, taken that day.
Cars stop at a car park about 2 km below the dam. The hybrid electric bus takes about 7 minutes: adults ¥1,200 return, ¥700 one way. Or walk the road through the forest and a long tunnel, as we did.
The last bus up was at 15:30 on the sign the day we went. Go to Hoheikyo first, then the rest.
Past the tunnel, a viewpoint sits just above the dam. The lift car is ¥500 return, or free with an electric bus ticket. The path takes under five minutes, but it is steep.
From the bridge at the entrance to the dam car park, you can see the water pouring from the dam. Above it lies Sapporo Lake, ringed by mountains.
Hotels line the Toyohira River. A small park at the hot spring source sits on the main street, and the riverside is best at dusk.
On 15 October the colour around Hoheikyo was at its best. The town, lower down, was a little behind.
We drove. The last 2 km to Hoheikyo Dam is bus or walking only for everyone. Local buses also run from Sapporo to Jozankei; check the timetable before you go.
It is a road, about 2 km, through the forest and a tunnel. It climbs gently. The path from the dam up to the viewpoint is short but steep.
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